Though we understand their circumstances may have been a bit different, like Oliver and his clan of orphan boys, we’ve all fallen into a daze dreaming of “food, glorious food” at one point or another.
After all, it’s been said that food is the great equalizer, connecting us and bringing us together, either with family or friends, colleagues or companions, or any others from all walks of life, to dine often at a communal table or gathering space wherein we share stories and reveal the most authentic parts of ourselves.
In our continued effort, however, to find our way into others’ hearts (and stomachs!), sometimes it helps to venture beyond our tables and into the kitchens of others — especially in a city with such a diversified abundance of eateries as New York.
And of course, you can’t spell “theatre” without “eat.”
So, in our food-based series, we continue to poll some of the Great Bright Way’s best to “dish” (get it?) on where they love to eat, drink, and take in the vibes either pre- or post-show, while also answering why they love to sup there, sharing a favorite dish or two, and more.
Today, we’re entering the chat with Yasmin Ranz-Lind, currently appearing as Karya in Off-Broadway’s Fish. Pressured by her mother’s theories about her brother’s mysterious disappearance at the hands of ISIS, Karya finds herself tangled up in a twisted online experiment in a quest to discover where — and who — he is. Blending the best of girlhood with grief and humor with high-stakes tension, the show runs at the WP Theater through November 1.
In addition to her work in Fish, Ranz-Lind has appeared Off-Broadway in Smile with J2 Spotlight Musical Theater Company. Regional credits include Hershel and the Hannukah Goblins (Actors Theatre of Louisville), Sherwood: The Adventures of Robin Hood (Theater of the Big Bend), and the world premieres of both Lost Sock Laundry (Up Theater Company) and Allerleirauh: A New Musical (Alvin Ailey Dance Theatre). Ever the foodie, in addition to her performance work, Ranz-Lind also serves as Lead Guide and Operations Manager for the culinary tour agency Avital Experiences.
But where does Yasmin yearn to have a meal?
(766 9th Ave.)
With its distressed wood panels and vintage accents evoking the charm of traditional Thai markets and neighborhood grocery stores, Pure Thai Cookhouse “is one of my absolute favorite Theatre District spots!” Ranz-Lind enthuses.
Founded in 2010 by restaurateurs David and Vanida Bank, the “small, but beautiful Thai restaurant” nestled in the heart of Hell’s Kitchen is one of a slew of establishments continuing a long-preserved family culinary tradition that began in 1943.
Equal parts cozy and convivial – and tucked away enough to offer a reprieve from the routine bustle – the eatery accommodates solo diners, on low stools at a bar along the wall, as well as larger groups with a communal table toward the front. “It feels a bit like being transported out of New York!” Ranz-Lind continues. “The ambience is delightful, and the food is incredibly high quality!”
To that end, noodles – the product of the family’s legacy – are the specialty here, highlighted throughout the restaurant’s diverse selection of dishes.
Hand-rolled and cut in-house daily, they can be served either “dry,” tossed with various ingredients and seasonings (crab and pork, spiked with yu choy and scallions, is the chef-recommended combo), or “wet,” meaning submerged in soup.
A self-proclaimed “noodle fiend,” Ranz-Lind opts for the “drunken” Pad Kee Mao – not only a customer favorite, but a dish “they do fabulously here,” to boot. Prepared with flavorful rice noodles in a mix of tomato, bok choy, snap peas and chili puree, with just a touch of “the most fragrant” Thai basil, the dish, recommended at medium heat, is “properly spicy – just the way I like it,” says the actor, adding that she particularly delights in the snap peas’ satisfyingly sharp crunch.
Depending on the weather, she’ll also turn to the Nakorn Patom Duck Noodle Soup, which she deems “the perfect winter dish.” Featuring rice noodles, braised duck legs, celery, broccoli and bean sprouts in a fiery five-spice soy broth, “it feels truly healing to eat,” especially in frigid temps.
Snacks and quick noshes are plentiful, too, with dumplings, Spring rolls, and a Blue Crab Papaya Salad – boasting Thai long beans, tomato, dried shrimp, garlic and Thai bird chili lime juice amidst hearty chunks of the titular crustacean – are among the offerings.
The top-notch desserts, including the classic Sweet Mango atop Coconut Sticky Rice, and a signature Sugarcane Ice Cream, with pineapple marmalade, peanuts and sea salt, are equally “not to be missed” and highly recommended.
At the end of the day, no matter what your meal, you can rest assured it was prepared with love and care. And, as their mission statement declares: “Simple ingredients. Time-honored craft. That’s the foundation of everything we serve.”
Pure Thai Cookhouse is open Monday-Thursday from 11:30am-10pm, and Friday & Saturday from 11:30am-11pm.
(88 2nd Ave.)
“When I’m not performing, I work for a company called Avital Experiences,” Ranz-Lind explains, conducting interactive guided food tours for guests across Manhattan. “Through that [job], I discovered my favorite Italian restaurant in NYC: Frank.”
Serving fresh and simple Italian food to the people of the East Village since 1998, Frank – named for its founder, red-sauce connoisseur Frank Prisinzano – has been packing in customers and churning out ragù, meatloaf, bruschetta, and what Ranz-Lind refers to as “the absolute best homemade pastas” all cooked to order for almost three decades.
Its homey interior plastered with family photos and mementos from Prisinzano’s upbringing, “it feels like eating at an Italian grandmother’s house,” she exclaims. “It’s such a special experience!”
“Every dish is based on the owner’s original family recipes,” she continues; from the Mozzarella di Bufala (prepared fresh with ripe tomatoes and basil) to the Garlic & Olive Oil Spaghetti, served with or without salted anchovies to the Roasted Rosemary Chicken, prepped with mashed potatoes, gravy, olives and slow-roasted tomatoes, they’re all adapted from his parents, Carlo and Carmela Panella, whose pictures adorn the menu, as well as the walls.
But, Ranz-Lind cautions, “you simply cannot miss their Uncle Tony’s Gnocchi.” Dubbing its contents “the pillowiest gnocchi I have ever had,” they’re doused in a rich and garlicky Filetto tomato sauce, wherein the tomatoes are cut into strips rather than puréed, topped with more fresh tomatoes and basil, and finished with a sprinkling of Parmigiano.
Salads and sides fill out the rest of the offerings, capped off by their dessert, which includes a molten chocolate cake that is “to die for.”
Interchanging specials are offered daily at a fixed price – including black linguine with frutti di mare on Sundays, risotto on Tuesdays and classic Beef Lasagna on Thursdays – and traditional beer, coffee, and soft drinks are also available. As a rule, the establishment is strictly cash only.
“We hope you realize the honesty in what we are doing and how much we love having you over for a bite,” reads a statement printed on the front of their menu. And if Ranz-Lind’s experience is any indication, it’s clear the feeling is mutual. The customers have indeed made this place their home – again, for nearly thirty years and counting – just as Grandma (and Frank) would want.
Frank is open Monday-Thursday from 10:30am-1am, Friday & Saturday from 10:30am-2am, and Sunday from 10:30am-12am.
We’ll continue to present a new performer with new restaurants and new menus, so keep checking back to see who we poll and what’s on their mind at mealtime! Until next time, as always, bon appétit!
