Though we understand their circumstances may have been a bit different, like Oliver and his clan of orphan boys, we’ve all fallen into a daze dreaming of “food, glorious food” at one point or another.
After all, it’s been said that food is the great equalizer, connecting us and bringing us together, either with family or friends, colleagues or companions, or any others from all walks of life, to dine often at a communal table or gathering space wherein we share stories and reveal the most authentic parts of ourselves.
In our continued effort, however, to find our way into others’ hearts (and stomachs!), sometimes it helps to venture beyond our tables and into the kitchens of others — especially in a city with such a diversified abundance of eateries as New York.
And of course, you can’t spell “theatre” without “eat.”
So, in our food-based series, we continue to poll some of the Great Bright Way’s best to “dish” (get it?) on where they love to eat, drink, and take in the vibes either pre- or post-show, while also answering why they love to sup there, sharing a favorite dish or two, and more.
Today, we turn to Jill Abramovitz, currently portraying Toots, the agoraphobic, yet sharp-tongued, mother of Joy (Betsy Wolfe) in the “new true” musical of the same name, now playing at the Laura Pels Theatre through August 17th.
Ultimately determined to push her headstrong daughter to “go make a dent in this world….be so much more than [her] mother’s daughter,” and ultimately fulfill her dream, she, too, like Joy, learns of what having perseverance, fearlessness, and the strength to empower ourselves to be “louder than thunder” can lead us to uncover.
In addition to her work in Joy, Abramovitz’s Main Stem credits include All In, Beetlejuice, Fiddler on the Roof (2015 revival), Rodgers & Hammerstein’s Cinderella, and more, while her regional roles include Lillian Kantrowitz in A Walk on the Moon (George Street Playhouse), Veronica in God of Carnage (Cape Playhouse), and appearances in shows at Goodspeed Opera House, The Kennedy Center and Barrington Stage Company. On screen, she’s been seen as Stevie on The Marvelous Mrs. Maisel and Susan Charles on Chicago Med, but has also popped up on Blue Bloods, The Blacklist, FBI: Most Wanted, The Last OG, and Law & Order: SVU, among others.
Finally, a true multi-hyphenate, Abramovitz also contributed lyrics to Broadway’s It Shoulda Been You, alongside Brian Hargrove, and proudly has several additional creative projects in development.
But where does Abramovitz like to eat?
(152 W. 49th Street)
“The line is often long for this place,” Abramovitz admits, of the business that was first initiated as “Futaba Ramen” in 1960 in Hakata, Japan, “but that’s because it’s worth it.”
With a name meaning “one orchid” in English, what began as a small family enterprise has blossomed into a global conglomerate, first operating as a retail location in 1993, and then expanding across Asia throughout the ‘90s and, eventually, into the US. Their first American location debuted in Brooklyn in 2016, with locations in Midtown and Times Square following soon after.
“You can sit at the counter alone and slide the dividers out to make a little booth for yourself,” Abramovitz says, of their unique dining style. “You can have your own little private slurping moment.”
But it’s not just for show, it’s by design. This specific, exclusive seating arrangement comes from the brain of Ichiran founder Manabu Yoshitomi. Polling his customers upon opening his first restaurant and discovering that they preferred not to slurp their ramen in a public setting, he devised the idea of “solo ramen focus booths,” according to Annie Chen, a spokesperson for the restaurant.
“His own experience as a young apprentice also taught him that keeping the chefs away from the customer's eyes helps create a sense of mystery that enhances the flavors of the food,” she continues, speaking of his philosophy to shield the meal prep from its consumers until it’s time to eat.
As for the meal, Ichiran specializes in the classic tonkotsu ramen, a Fukuoka specialty made with a rick and savory pork-bone broth, long, thin noodles, and served with all the fixins — including seaweed, kikurage mushrooms, scallions, chashu pork slices, garlic, house-made Osukaran vinegar, and soft-boiled egg — or customized to your liking (add or subtract toppings as you see fit).
Though it’s almost exclusively “their main thing,” Abramovitz notes that if you’re not a meat-eater, a vegetarian option is available, swapping the pork broth with a light and flavorful Dashi selection.
“You get to choose your level of spicy on a scale of 1-10,” the actress explains. “I do a 6, because it’s incredibly flavorful and clears out the sinuses, but also doesn’t destroy me.” If you’re a Ramen rookie, Chen also recommends sticking to “somewhere in the middle,” much like Abramovitz’s “6,” allowing for a medium flavoring, richness, and texture within the noodles. “[It’s] neither too light in flavor, nor too strong,” she describes. “Just like Goldilocks and her porridge, it is ‘just right’ to create a baseline to help you decide what your preferences are for your next visit.”
Finally, should you desire it, second noodle helpings — known in Japanese as “kae-dama,” which translates to “new ball” — are available as either a full portion or half portion of noodles. All Ramen is prepared completely in-house, served with their signature Original Spicy Red Sauce, a thick, burgundy blend of togarashi peppers and a combination of over 30 different spices, and delivered within their strictly standard time limit of 15 seconds (“Anything over [that time] is unacceptable,” they declare).
“It’s scrumptious,” Abramovitz concludes, summing up the dish itself and the surrounding atmosphere. “It really is… any time of year. It’s the perfect dinner.”
Ichiran Times Square is open M-Th from 11am-10pm, and Friday, Saturday & Sunday from 11am-10:30pm.
(132 W. 44th Street)
Initially established to nurture those active in the arts, in addition to its fervent supporters, the Lambs Club — named for essayist Charles Lamb and his sister, Mary, who were among the group’s initial hosts —has been the premier New York City social club since 1874.
Opened in its modern iteration first in 2010, longtime Lambs operator David Rabin, along with partners Chef Jack Logue and restaurateur Chris Miller, brought in three-star Michelin chef Michael White and Kyle Hotchkiss Carone of Grand Tour Hospitality for a restaurant redux in 2022, in anticipation of a grand reopening coming out of the pandemic.
Today, this “iconic and timeless dining room” serves power lunches and pre-show dinners alike to an impressive array of clientele that honors both the purpose of the original Lambs Club — a meeting place for private members which mainly consisted of Broadway and film notables, including Sid Caesar, Fred Astaire & Irving Berlin — and its contemporary ideology in re-envisioning the space as a warm and inviting public restaurant and event space for all.
Now defined by its “new-old New York” ambience, its setting is still as sleek as ever, with iconic black walls, scarlet-red booths, and polished chrome finishes against an opulent limestone fireplace.
“What I always loved about the [original] Lambs Club is that it was this modern, clubby place that also had so much history,” says Carone, in a statement. “What we are doing with this latest iteration….as we are in a bit of a different world….is examining what that looks like in a [modern] environment.”
As for the food, “it’s a fancy place,” another review puts it bluntly, “but if you’re going to have a pricey meal in the area, this is a reliable option.” The menu boasts such undersea staples as seared scallops (bacon, potato & leek) and Halibut (celery, summer squash, chamomile consommé); dry-aged steaks, like the Filet Mignon or Wagyu New York Strip, are also obvious crowd pleasers, as are more exclusively flavored dishes, such as the ‘Nduja Carbonara (tagliatelle, bacon-fat poached egg), or the roasted lamb saddle (with merguez, asparagus and morels).
But ask Abramovitz, and she’ll only tell you one thing: “This is the place you go to get the burger that you didn’t know you needed.” Named for the original architect, who erected the building in 1905, the “uber-juicy” Stanford White Burger is served with pickled onion and a “thick cap of Gruyère cheese.”
“And the fries are perfect,” she adds, with a gleeful laugh. “They’re skinny, crisp, and perfectly salted. And served in that little cup with the paper liner…. perfection.” She giggles, detailing her time in All In, in the adjacent Hudson Theatre, when each of the alternating casts would await the sliders served at Lambs’ receptions “every couple of weeks.”
And, she adds, because of the renovation, “it’s a little [more] posh now, so it’s a great place for a classy drink, too,” be it a Manhattan, Paloma (codigo blanco, grapefruit, lime, spiced nectar), Sherry Cobbler (amontillado, oloroso, berry cordial), or the club’s signature Gold Rush (bulleit, honey syrup, lemon).
Sounds like a meal even Toots would get out of the house for!
The Lambs Club is open 7 days a week for breakfast from 7am-10:30am, and Tuesday-Saturday for dinner from 4:30pm-10pm. Drinks and bar snacks are served ’til 11pm.
ONE FINAL PICK: An authentic cozy Irish Pub conveniently located in the heart of Times Square – “and right down the block from Joy at the Laura Pels, at that,” Abramovitz notes – whether it’s a spot to grab a beer while watching the game or to grab a quick bite before a Broadway show, McCarthy’s Pub hails itself as “the perfect gathering place for any occasion.”
“It’s my go-to when I’m with people coming to see the show and we need somewhere relaxed and close,” Abramovitz explains.
On the food front, she seconds the burger here, too – the special Signature burger is an 8oz grass-fed Angus beef patty with bleu cheese, pickles, crispy onions, smoked bacon and McCarthy’s special sauce, though the menu is not limited to just the one – adding “it’s a great place to split classic bar appetizers,” like chicken wings, spinach & artichoke dip, Margherita flatbread, a giant beer pretzel with cheese sauce, and McCarthy’s classic beef nachos, smothered with homemade chili, cheddar cheese, jalapeños, tomato, onion, sour cream, guacamole, & salsa for that “classic pub feel.”
For the early risers, there’s also a breakfast menu, complete with such traditional staples as Corned Beef Hash, Steak and Eggs, and a Full Irish Breakfast platter, complete with Irish bacon, baked beans, and black-and-white pudding.
Regardless of when you dine, “the staff is also always super-friendly,” says Abramovitz, providing stellar service “even when they’re packed.”
“And, of course, they have great beer.” Again, another incentive for Toots to get off the couch!
McCarthy’s Irish Pub, located at 144 W. 46th Street, is open daily from 8am-4am, though the kitchen closes at 2am.
We’ll continue to present a new performer with new restaurants and new menus, so keep checking back to see who we poll and what’s on their mind at mealtime! Until next time, as always, bon appétit!
