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August 5, 2024
BROADWAY EATS with Kelley Curran

Though we understand their circumstances may have been a bit different, like Oliver and his clan of orphan boys, we’ve all fallen into a daze dreaming of “food, glorious food” at one point or another.

After all, it’s been said that food is the great equalizer, connecting us and bringing us together, either with family or friends, colleagues or companions, or any others from all walks of life, to dine often at a communal table or gathering space wherein we share stories and reveal the most authentic parts of ourselves.

In our continued effort, however, to find our way into others’ hearts (and stomachs!), sometimes it helps to venture beyond our tables and into the kitchens of others — especially in a city with such a diversified abundance of eateries as New York.

And of course, you can’t spell “theatre” without “eat.”

So, in our food-based series, we continue to poll some of the Great Bright Way’s best to “dish” (get it?) on where they love to eat, drink, and take in the vibes either pre- or post-show, while also answering why they love to sup there, sharing a favorite dish or two, and more.

Photo courtesy of the production

Next on our docket is Kelley Curran, who currently appears in The Meeting: The Interpreter at the Theatre at St. Clement’s. Through puppetry, projections, and intricate lighting and sound, the play, particularly prevalent in light of our current political climate, follows an international interpreter unintentionally entangled in government systems, which catapult him into circumstances beyond his control. Directed by Brian Mertes and co-starring Tony winner Frank Wood, the production runs through August 25.

Best known for her turn as Enid Winterton on The Gilded Age, Curran last appeared on the Main Stem in Present Laughter opposite Kevin Kline.

In addition to her work in The Meeting: The Interpreter, other theatre includes Half-God of Rainfall at New York Theatre Workshop, Mother of the Maid at the Public Theater opposite Glenn Close, and the world premiere of The Oresteia at Shakespeare Theatre Company. Television credits include roles on The Blacklist and God Friended Me. Among others, she’s been nominated for a SAG Award, a Drama League Award, a Lucille Lortel Award, and a Helen Hayes Award, and won the Joe A. Callaway Award for Best Actress in 2015.

But where does Kelley consume a meal?

KELLEY CURRAN RECOMMENDS....

Bird & Branch

(359 W. 45th St.)

“During the run of a show, discipline is always my best friend, so I’ll often prepare and bring meals along with me to the theater,” Curran explains. “But I always pop out for a caffeinated pick-me-up between performances… and with its delicious drinks and a skilled and friendly staff (not to mention a super cute line of merch!), Bird & Branch is the place to go!”

Husband-and-wife team Brandon & Faith Lee opened the independent specialty coffee shop in February 2018, aiming to serve up a stellar brew and other treats, while giving back to their community in the process — from their employees to their suppliers to their customers. 

“Opening a business changes your life, but it’s also an opportunity to change the lives of others,” says Brandon, of the company’s outlook. “Our mission, from the moment we started….was to be restorative.”

As such, coffee is sourced from Saint Frank, a San Francisco-based roasting company rooted in cultivating longstanding relationships with their producers and supporting small-scale farmers who wouldn’t otherwise get the opportunity to fully appreciate the “bean to barista” method firsthand. For their employees: a job-training program, pairing basic barista know-how with auxiliary expertise required to obtain and retain long-term employment.

And then, last but not least, there’s the customer. “We designed the shop to be different from your typical coffee hideout,” Brandon continues. “We wanted it to be a space to truly take a break.”

Photos courtesy of Bird & Branch

The airy, open design of the store and its seating area is delightfully complemented by aesthetic details adorning the interior, like greenery “sprouting” from the walls amid punny cards on display. And, of course, the coffee is second to none, and almost all drink items are, aptly, named after airborne vertebrates.  

“There’s a magical little drink called The Robin,” Curran says, with a sigh. “It’s made with fresh turmeric and ginger, brewed in cinnamon, cloves, and honey and mixed with housemade almond macadamia nut milk…. simply heaven!” Others on the roster of signature drinks include the Blackbird (made with espresso, blackberries, thyme, and the same housemade almond macadamia nut milk), the Nightingale (made with espresso, Earl Grey, and turbinado sugar), and a tangy, herb-infused lychee perilla lemonade, while seasonal favorites include the Bird of Paradise — specialty Ippodo matcha poured over fresh coconut juice, served with a pineapple slice — and Dirty Horchata, featuring creamy rice milk mixed with cinnamon and a splash of espresso (of note, the latter’s also a favorite of former Broadway demon Alex Brightman). 

Of course, traditional coffee beverages are also on hand and never disappoint: “I love a classic Flat White with non-dairy milk when I’m in the mood,” Curran continues. “If I need something less intense, a Matcha latte, also with non-dairy milk, will do the trick.”

Finally, finish off at the gift shop, either in person or virtually, to peruse a custom selection of apparel, gear, books, totes, teas and packaged blends, knowing all proceeds benefit various global organizations in need (free shipping on orders over $75). 

So, skip the Starbucks and find your perch in this calming, cozy neighborhood spot right in the center of the city.

Bird & Branch is open Monday from 7am-6pm, Tues-Fri from 7am-7:30pm, Saturday from 8am-7:30pm, and Sunday from 8am-6pm. 

LumLum

(404 W 49th St.)

“On a recent dinner break from our rehearsals, I had a lovely anniversary dinner with my husband at a Thai restaurant on 49th Street called LumLum,” Curran reveals. 

Photo courtesy of LumLum

With a name meaning “delicious” in the Northern part of Thailand, LumLum received an exuberant Hell’s Kitchen welcome when it opened in April of 2022, filling a longstanding neighborhood void left when the beloved Pam Real Thai Food closed at the onset of the pandemic.

Owners (and sisters!) Sommy and Mowarin Hensawang – the former affectionately known as So, with the latter affectionately known as Mo – knew that opening such a restaurant “completely from scratch” would come with its challenges, but appreciate the way in which the community has so openly embraced them.

“There are so many businesses in the neighborhood that have been here for years — a bakery that’s been here for two decades, another restaurant that’s been on the corner for 10 years… we are so grateful for the community here,” she said.

Of course, the prime location in itself isn’t half bad for business either.

“It’s New York — you can feel the energy,” So says, with a laugh. “There’s so much going on here, between locals and tourists… we knew that opening in this neighborhood would be a game changer.”

In managing the establishment, So & Mo draw from their upbringing; their mother and grandmother co-ran a popular seafood restaurant in the central province of Ayutthaya, about 50 miles north of Bangkok, so they were regularly rapt by “high-quality dishes and a lively, 24-hour energy.”

It’s this same energy with which they decided to imbue their own place – albeit with a few upscale aesthetic differences.

“We wanted to create a mix between Hawaiian and Thai culture,” says So. “We have bamboo lining the walls and the lighting fixtures, and posters displaying different places in both Thailand and Hawaii….our decór is more like a combination of Phuket and Waikiki beach-style.”

It worked: “I felt like I was on vacation in the middle of Midtown Manhattan,” says Curran, of her dining experience, aligning exactly with the pair’s initial intentions.

Photo Credit: Mo Hensawang

Their creativity also elevates the cuisine: they offer an impressive 36 dishes in seven categories, and though Mo takes charge in the kitchen (“I mean, I can cook, but I’m not as good as her! She’s the best!” So concedes), the sisters collaborate in creating the menu… ultimately cementing them, among customers, as one of the “top-five options for a casual meal in Hell’s Kitchen.”

Pulling again from their shared memories and childhood experiences, “all of the ingredients [and] all of the recipes [come] from my mom and grandma and from the area in Thailand that we grew up in….. We want them to taste our memory, and our culture,” So explained.

Top & LeftPhil O’Brien / Right: Robert Sietsema

And what truly sets them apart? Authenticity.

“We truly focus on the details,” says So, adding that, with Pad Thai, for example, “most restaurants use scallion, which you’d never find [in the dish] in Thailand. We use dried shrimp, which is very hard to find here, as well as chives… it’s more traditional to the dish.”

On the subject, Curran even commented “the flavors of the Pad Thai were fresh and nuanced,” additionally commending the chefs for creating a meal “that was comforting without being too heavy [for a performer] before a show.”

Diners may also choose to sit at the bar and sip a Pha Ngan Full Moon, a creamy lavender concoction of rum, coconut milk, lemon, and butterfly pea blossoms, or a Siam Smiles made with vodka, lychee and yuzu – two of their seven signature cocktails, in addition to the traditional, plus beer, wine and other soft drinks. (“The Thai iced tea, in particular, was perfectly sweet and refreshing!” notes Curran).

“It’s such a yummy, quaint, convivial place to grab a bite,” Curran says, in conclusion. “Chef’s kiss in every aspect!”

And the owners, of course, find the most important aspect in family.

“My sister supports me, and I support her,” says So, emphasizing the sisterly bond that goes hand in hand with their mission statement. “It’s how we grew up – we stick together always… and we’re stronger together.”

LumLum is open for M-Th from 12pm-4pm & 5pm-10pm, Saturday from 12pm-11pm, and Sunday from 12pm-10pm.  

ONE FINAL PICK: The tuna niçoise salad at Joe Allen is to die for!”  

We’ll continue to present a new performer with new restaurants and new menus, so keep checking back to see who we poll and what’s on their mind at mealtime! Until next time, as always, bon appétit!

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Written by: Matt Smith
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