Though we understand their circumstances may have been a bit different, like Oliver and his clan of orphan boys, we’ve all fallen into a daze dreaming of “food, glorious food” at one point or another.
After all, it’s been said that food is the great equalizer, connecting us and bringing us together, either with family or friends, colleagues or companions, or any others from all walks of life, to dine often at a communal table or gathering space wherein we share stories and reveal the most authentic parts of ourselves.
In our continued effort, however, to find our way into others’ hearts (and stomachs!), sometimes it helps to venture beyond our tables and into the kitchens of others — especially in a city with such a diversified abundance of eateries as New York.
And of course, you can’t spell “theatre” without “eat.”
So, in our food-based series, we continue to poll some of the Great Bright Way’s best to “dish” (get it?) on where they love to eat, drink, and take in the vibes either pre- or post-show, while also answering why they love to sup there, sharing a favorite dish or two, and more.
We continue now with the talented Max von Essen, currently (razzle) dazzling audiences as suave Chicago lawyer Billy Flynn. Prior to his acclaimed performance in the Fosse tuner, he enjoyed turns on Broadway in Anastasia, the 2012 revival of Evita, Dance of the Vampires, Jesus Christ Superstar, and both the original and 2006 revival of Les Misérables.
On tour, he’s been seen as Marvin in Falsettos and Sonny in Xanadu.
And, of course, he evoked a glistening “Stairway to Paradise” to Grammy-, Drama Desk- and Tony-nominated effect as Henri Baurel in An American in Paris.
Concurrent with his stint in Chicago, von Essen is presenting a selection of standards and showtunes — including some from his debut solo album, Call Me Old Fashioned: The Broadway Standard — with the New York Pops at Carnegie Hall on November 15th. (“You feel like you’re flying,” he says, of stepping out onto the hallowed stage, which he’s done twice before — but never as a soloist. “It will be the greatest musical night of my life and career thus far – no exaggerating.”)
But where does von Essen voyage out to eat?
(630 9th Avenue)
As a “gluten-free human,” echoing the sentiments of another (also gluten-free) Broadway Eats contributor, von Essen is adamant in his advocacy for Nizza. (“I could literally eat at Nizza every night.”)
During his tenure in Les Miz in 2007, “I had recently discovered that I was gluten intolerant and there were very few places with accommodating menus,” he details. “So, not only was it a great place with delicious food, but I could also order from their special [gluten-free] menu with peace of mind.”
He’s been a “repeat attender” since it opened in 2007, and while the offerings have changed over the years and with the seasons, “one of my favorites – a tried-and-true menu item – remains: the Eggplant Rollatini appetizer.” The dish spotlights grilled eggplant stuffed with ricotta and roasted in a brick oven with tomato and parmesan. (“It’s insanely delicious!” gushes von Essen.)
Emphasizing how impossible it is to find gluten-intolerant fried calamari, he adds “the Fritto Misto is a must.”
“They toss in fried shrimp, zucchini, and vinegar peppers as well,” he continues, “and serve with a spicy marinara dipping sauce.”
Other endorsements include the Quattro Formaggio – a four-cheese pizza splashed with gorgonzola, smoked mozzarella, fontina, and pecorino, and drizzled with spicy honey (all pizzas, again, made with gluten-free flour) – or the Funghi pasta, featuring mushrooms (natch) atop spaghetti, and blended with garlic, white wine, arugula and Parmesan.
“I also recently tasted the Roman Artichoke Hearts,” he adds – tossed in garlic, breadcrumbs, and pecorino and drizzled with EVOO – “and I’m obsessed! Melt-in-your-mouth deliciousness for sure!”
Bonus tip: Go on a Wednesday to take advantage of their “Wine Wednesday” special: “they have a list of bottles all available for just $24.”
And though he insists the above are all suggestions, not a single order, and adds that portions are big enough to share (“I order all of these items with a friend,” he laughs), he admits he may, due to the food’s unbeatable quality, “sometimes…. occasionally… perhaps… maybe… once in a while order all of it by myself.”
As a regular of 17 years, who can blame him? All he cares about is love…. and a good plate of gluten-free food!
Nizza is open for lunch Monday-Friday from 12pm-4pm, dinner Sunday-Tuesday 4pm-10:30pm, Wednesday & Saturday 4pm-11:30pm. Brunch is served Saturday & Sunday from 11pm-4pm.
(626 10th Avenue)
Holding the distinction of the first guaranteed fully gluten-free Italian restaurant in New York City, Senza Gluten Restaurant (which literally translates to “without gluten” in Italian) opened under Chef Jemiko L. Solo at its initial Sullivan Street location in 2014, in response to the growing number of gluten-resistant individuals on the local and global level.
After successfully running the restaurant for four years, he opened the adjacent Café and Bakery under the same name in 2018.
Following the pandemic, which saw Solo branch out and offer nationwide shipping of his food and baked goods, he renamed the business Senza Gluten by Jemiko and re-opened his restaurant at its current location in Hell’s Kitchen, where it’s been (deservedly) buzzing since 2023.
“The restaurant is a godsend to so many of us with allergies,” exclaims von Essen, adding that the “gluten-free” label extends to the entire restaurant – “so nothing with gluten ever enters the facility.”
Furthermore, the “amazing food” and “impeccable service” are complemented by elegant style and relaxing ambiance, including a full bar, private dining for parties or business dinners, a welcoming backyard setting, and a sunny sidewalk café.
As for the eats? “My favorite menu item is the Pollo Alla Parmigiana – hands down!” The popular Italian staple – with the “Senza Gluten” twist – features a breaded and pan-fried chicken breast under creamy buffalo mozzarella and aged Parmigiano Reggiano cheese, atop a corn-based penne pasta in a deeply rich homemade tomato sauce. “It’s essentially chicken parm!” von Essen exclaims, “which, if you’re gluten-free, you know is hard to find.” However, even if you’re not, “it’s one of the best chicken parms I’ve ever tasted… period!!”
Other menu must-haves include the lasagna – corn-based and layered with homemade béchamel and bolognese sauce, drizzled with fresh basil and EVOO purée. And while any of the desserts, freshly created in the aforementioned Sullivan Street Café and Bakery, will satisfy your sweet tooth, “you are simply not ready for the Torta Al Cioccolato,” warns von Essen, praising the soft-centered bittersweet chocolate cake, served alongside toasted almond cream anglaise and delectable vanilla bean ice cream.
Whether you’re gluten-intolerant like von Essen or just someone in search of flavorful food, it’s clear Senza Gluten is the place to be.
Above all, Chef Jemiko is adamant that his diners feel safe, and von Essen assures: “People who are extremely sensitive [to gluten and other allergens] can truly rest easy dining here, which is an incredibly amazing thing!”
As Henri Baurel might inquire (or as Max himself might declare when revisiting the show with a song next Friday night), “Who could ask for anything more?”
Senza Gluten by Jemiko is open Monday-Friday from 4pm-11pm & Saturday and Sunday from 11am-11pm. Weekend brunch closes at 3:30pm. The Café and Bakery, located at 171 Sullivan Street, is open Monday 9am-4pm, closed on Tuesdays, and open Wednesday-Sunday 9am-4pm.
We’ll continue to present a new performer with new restaurants and new menus, so keep checking back to see who we poll and what’s on their mind at mealtime! Until next time, as always, bon appétit!
