The acclaimed actress and jazz singer highlights her favorite foods off the 54 menu ahead of her brunchtime residency at the intimate venue.
Though we understand their circumstances may have been a bit different, like Oliver and his clan of orphan boys, we’ve all fallen into a daze dreaming of “food, glorious food” at one point or another.
After all, it’s been said that food is the great equalizer, connecting us and bringing us together, either with family or friends, colleagues or companions, or any others from all walks of life, to dine often at a communal table or gathering space wherein we share stories and reveal the most authentic parts of ourselves.
In our continued effort, however, to find our way into others’ hearts (and stomachs!), sometimes it helps to venture beyond our tables and into the kitchens of others — especially in a city with such a diversified abundance of eateries as New York.
And of course, you can’t spell “theatre” without “eat.”
So, in our fabulous food-based series, we continue to poll some of the Great Bright Way’s best to “dish” (get it?) on where they love to eat, drink, and take in the vibes either pre- or post-show, while also answering why they love to sup there, sharing a favorite dish or two, and more.
Today, we turn to top-notch actress and comedian Lea DeLaria, who’s basking in the radiance of her newly established residency at Midtown hotspot 54 Below. Though probably best known to audiences as Big Boo on Netflix’s Orange is the New Black (for which she won SAG Awards in three different years as part of the Best Ensemble in a Comedy Series), she’s got quite the impressive Broadway résumé as well, having played Hildy in the 1998 revival of On the Town, Dr. Scott & Eddie in the 2000 revival of The Rocky Horror Show, and, most recently, Bernadette in POTUS in 2022.
She now takes on the crowds at the intimate supper club with a “fat, fast and funny” monthly offering as part of the venue’s new Brunch Series, aptly titled “Brunch is Gay.”
Offering the best of Broadway, including Sondheim, Michael John LaChiusa, and Kander & Ebb, perfectly paired with smooth jazz standards from Ella Fitzgerald, Frank Sinatra & Billie Holliday, it’s a daytime drinking experience you won’t soon forget!
“Each month will be a different theme… and it’s all based on events or occurrences happening at the time of the show,” DeLaria explains. “For example, October will be Halloween-esque, December will be Christmas-themed…” and so on. Themes of late have ranged from a Pride celebration, an all Cole Porter-themed show, and an afternoon honoring the vocal style of scat, to name a few. “Every show is different, every guest is different… [but] it’s always a great time, I guarantee it…. with maybe the occasional F-bomb.”
And speaking of guests, has she got the lineup.
“Not to brag, but I excel in a variety of show business arenas,” she declares, “and my guests are often a reflection of that.”
So far, she’s booked Drag Race all-star Alexis Michelle, Grammy Award winner Janis Siegel, musician and recording artist Bitch, and Matilda Tony winner Gabriel Ebert for her inaugural batch of shows. Look for appearances from Broadway favorite Lilli Cooper, comic legend Jackie Hoffman, Black Mafia Family standout Stacey Sargeant, and more in the coming months.
But not only is this revelatory romp an opportunity for the star to showcase her stellar, if lesser-known, jazz timbre, for DeLaria, it’s also a homecoming.
“I love it here, and I love coming back,” she gushes, of 54 Below. “Just speaking as a performer, the piano is awesome, the sound system is excellent, the technical crew is beyond reproach… [Everyone] is so polite, kind, and professional. It’s truly the best!”
In keeping with that superlative and (deservedly) high praise, the venue, newly established as a non-profit organization, has been revamping its programming, aiming to turn the traditional cabaret and dining experience on its head, while still providing the “unparalleled audience experience” its patrons have come to expect… and revere.
“For years, our patrons had been asking for a brunch experience and we were thrilled to be able to make it happen,” says Nella Vera, Director of Marketing. Always looking for fresh ways to appeal to their audiences, she’s proud to say the series, spearheaded by Deputy Director of Programming Mia Porter, reflects the diversity patrons can find in the overall programming at 54 Below.
In addition to DeLaria’s jazz brunch, mid-morning offerings including a Gospel Brunch, featuring a house band led by composer Rashad McPherson, a Broadway-themed brunch, curated by Main Stem impresario Scott Siegel, and a forthcoming Drag Brunch, hosted by drag icon Marti Cummings.
Of note, the Broadway brunch begins an hour earlier than the rest; considering its stage-centric subject matter, it’s designed to allow its presumably theatre-loving patrons enough time to make their matinées.
All brunches include separate menus from the regular 54 Below fare, each specially designed by Executive Chef James Kaplak. Dishes can be ordered á la carte or choose one dish from each course for a combined $40 price.
And given the venue’s sumptuous array of offerings, we’re shaking things up from our usual routine and highlighting the menu at hand. So, what’s on Lea’s list of recommendations?
“I’m all about that bacon,” she responds, without hesitation. “That bacon is good.”
Try it in the Bacon, Egg and Cheese – prepared with house-smoked pork belly and aged cheddar on crispy brioche and served with your choice of home fries or mixed greens, or you’ll be accommodated if you order it, like DeLaria, as a side.
Or go for the Avocado Toast, made with tomato confit, French breakfast radish, and a dash of sea salt, drizzled with lemon olive oil.
For the sweet tooth, there’s the super-sized Cinnamon Roll, generously iced and dusted with the titular brown sugar cinnamon, or you can’t go wrong with the cheesecake, topped with strawberry sauce and toffee brittle, and served alongside a velvety cream cheese gelato. DeLaria also recommends the traditional Chicken & Waffles, served with whipped Cholula hot honey butter and an ample amount of fresh maple syrup. Or the more unique PB&J Stuffed French toast, prepared with a luscious raspberry peanut butter mousse, and piled high with whipped cream, raspberry compote, and toasted peanuts.
Shrimp n’ Grits – drizzled with smoked paprika oil and Thai basil – and a vegan veggie frittata, prepared with seasonal vegetables, round out the eclectic menu, boasting “delicious brunch favorites with a twist.”
But even with all this, DeLaria still circles back to the pork product, reiterating: “Man, that bacon is good.”
Off the drink menu, she goes for a post-show Casamigos Tequila – and, on that note, any alcohol (wine, whiskey, tequila, etc.) is available on request; but if you’re feeling festive, a special $30 mimosa flight – featuring four distinctly delicious cocktails – can be added to any meal at brunchtime.
It all adds up to an unequaled and appetizing experience – one that prides itself on “the seamless fusion of the culinary and the theatrical,” according to General Manager Mandisa Boxill, who also describes the “immersive and multi-sensory” morning as “elegant and captivating.”
“The artistry of the plate is matched by the artistry on the stage,” she concludes, stating that, within the brunch series and beyond, “the close proximity to world-class performers creates a unique connection that turns every meal into a personal unforgettable show.”
So, raise your glass – and the curtain – to an experience like none other!
54 Below (254 W. 54th Street) is open for Brunch at 11:30am; performances begin at 1pm. Lea DeLaria’s “Brunch is Gay” is currently scheduled to run on select Sundays through December 8, 2024; see links for full schedule of Brunch programming and sumptuous Brunch menu. For more information, visit 54below.org.
We’ll continue to present a new performer with new restaurants and new menus, so keep checking back to see who we poll and what’s on their mind at mealtime! Until next time, as always, bon appétit!
