Though we understand their circumstances may have been a bit different, like Oliver and his clan of orphan boys, we’ve all fallen into a daze dreaming of “food, glorious food” at one point or another.
After all, it’s been said that food is the great equalizer, connecting us and bringing us together, either with family or friends, colleagues or companions, or any others from all walks of life, to dine often at a communal table or gathering space wherein we share stories and reveal the most authentic parts of ourselves.
In our continued effort, however, to find our way into others’ hearts (and stomachs!), sometimes it helps to venture beyond our tables and into the kitchens of others — especially in a city with such a diversified abundance of eateries as New York.
And of course, you can’t spell “theatre” without “eat.”
So, in our food-based series, we continue to poll some of the Great Bright Way’s best to “dish” (get it?) on where they love to eat, drink, and take in the vibes either pre- or post-show, while also answering why they love to sup there, sharing a favorite dish or two, and more.
Next on our lineup is actor and writer Kevin Del Aguila, soon to be wrapping up a stint as no-nonsense florist Mr. Mushnik in Off-Broadway’s Little Shop of Horrors.
The multi-talented multi-hyphenate made his Broadway debut as Smee in Peter and the Starcatcher, reprising his role from the Off-Broadway production. Across the entertainment spectrum, he’s had roles in Rocky (Broadway), Love’s Labour’s Lost (Shakespeare in the Park), and Deadbeat (Hulu), and holds the distinction of appearing in two iterations of Frozen (he starred as Oaken in the original Broadway cast of the musical and voiced a troll in the original 2013 film!)
An accomplished writer and lyricist, Del Aguila has provided the book for musical adaptations of Diary of a Wimpy Kid, Madagascar, and Dog Man, the latter of which recently announced a national tour, and the Off-Broadway smash hit Altar Boyz. Additionally, he’s won multiple Emmy Awards for his writing contributions to the PBS children’s series Peg + Cat.
Of course, he notably nabbed a Tony nom for his role as the impish Osgood in Some Like It Hot and will next be seen on the Main Stem in Roundabout Theatre Company’s revival of Yellow Face, which begins previews on September 13 before officially opening on October 1.
But where does Del Aguila like to dine?
(326 W. 46th Street)
Like so many other Broadway Eats contributors, Del Aguila can’t say enough about Joe Allen.
“[It’s] probably the most cliché theater district pick,” he laughs, “but it never lets me down. When I first came to the city, I thought Joe Allen was some fancy, exclusive Broadway club that I would never dream of entering. Once I finally went in, I found it to be completely welcoming and delightful. The brick arches and candlelight give it a cozy and charming vibe, but I also love that there's a sense of playfulness in the air, epitomized by the posters of flopped Broadway productions lining the walls. The service is outstanding, and they always get me out of there in time for a show. Plus, you never know what Broadway talent might be sitting at the table next to you.”
The actor’s favorite dishes include the grilled half-chicken, served with mashed potatoes – “tender, juicy and perfectly seasoned…. it makes my mouth water just thinking about it!” – and the Joe Allen burger, cooked to your liking, with fries (and bacon or cheese for an additional charge). “Everything about it is simple and sublime,” he says, of the dish, also popular among the restaurant’s regulars. “And it’s just the right portion to satiate as an after-show meal. Pair it with a martini and… it’s truly heaven.”
Bonus pick: The guacamole. Mixed with cilantro, jalapeño, tomatillo, queso fresco, and onion, and served with tri-colored tortilla chips, “it’s way better than it has any legal right to be.”
“You have this feeling in New York where you’re like, ‘So much is happening at once…I must be missing out on something,’” he surmises. “I don’t feel that at Joe Allen — they make you feel like ‘this is the spot,’ and when I’m [here], I always feel like I’m right where I need to be.”
Joe Allen is open Tuesday, Thursday and Friday, from 12pm-11:30pm; Wednesday & Saturday from 11:30am-11:30pm, and Sunday from 11:30am-10:30pm. Consistent with the New York show schedule, the restaurant’s closed on Mondays.
(407 W. 42nd Street)
“West Bank Café has been a staple of the theater district for 46 years,” says Del Aguila, of the famed 42nd street eatery. To start, “it was the go-to place after productions of plays I wrote and/or performed in on Theater Row, not to mention the readings and concerts I did in the restaurant’s downstairs theater.”
And not just for him. Since 1978, this popular theater district haunt – and its adjoining Laurie Beechman Theatre – have served as a launching pad for countless musicians, actors, comedians, and writers of all ages.
Current West Bank owner Steve Olsen opened the Laurie Beechman Theatre in 1983, initially offering it up for jazz and cabaret acts. Awarded two stars in The New York Times, thereby increasing visibility and attracting a wider range of clientele, the basement-based theatre went on to produce plays, musicals, comedy, drag, and variety shows.
“We never held auditions,” Olson explains, emphasizing the idea that anyone and everyone was invited to perform. “It was a place to take risks… [a place] to have complete artistic freedom as an actor, writer or director.” In the best way, “this was a place to fail.”
Steeped in history, the Beechman is the stage on which the original cast of Sunday in the Park with George rehearsed, the last stage on which Joan Rivers performed, the first stage on which Aaron Sorkin’s works were produced, and the stage on which a young, unknown comic playwright named Lewis Black got his start… and, at one point, commandeered the program as its playwright-in-residence. The Who even gave four live performances at their restaurant during Tommy’s original 1993 run.
It's this rich history that’s been such a huge power player in why the place is so beloved, and why so many have come out in droves to save it from closure.
In danger of demise at the time of this interview, things have seemed to perk up for the restaurant – thanks to a community-launched GoFundMe page that recently topped $100,000.
And it’s a good thing, too – as Del Aguila declares the food a hit (“Where else are you going to find Prosciutto Dusted Deviled Eggs in Midtown?!”), particularly noting the “delightfully delicious” shrimp scampi (served in a white wine butter sauce) and the pan-seared salmon, prepared with beluga lentils, leeks, carrots, “and a bacon vinaigrette, of all things!”
Also in demand is their $29 Salad and Pasta Special, featuring, either a Garden or Caesar salad, and a choice of one out of three rotating pasta preparations.
But ultimately, it’s the “right mix of neighborhood charm and quality” as Del Aguila puts it, that pulls at the heartstrings and keeps the people coming back.
“I think that a place like the West Bank and the Beechman are absolutely what makes New York New York," explained composer Joe Iconis, who, along with Olson and Broadway producer Tom D’Angora, his husband Michael D’Angora, and actor Tim Guinee, was behind the effort to build back the business, ensuring the West Bank “not only survives, but thrives for years to come.”
“The service is swift, and the food is reasonably priced,” Del Aguila continues. “[It’s] a warm and inviting place to gather with a group or a significant other with the right ambiance to gab about the show you just saw or are about to see.”
Echoes actress – and longtime diner – Melissa Gilbert: “The door was always open.”
“The place has been struggling since the pandemic,” Del Aguila admits. (To that point, a 2020 COVID-impacted fundraiser was born out of similar necessity and yielded similar results). But, he adds, “it always seems to stay afloat. Here’s hoping a miracle keeps it alive and kicking in Hell’s Kitchen.”
While anything can happen in this economy, we can optimistically say, for now, his wish has been granted: that miracle has arrived.
“It’s gratifying beyond belief how we’ve touched so many people for just [being] a restaurant,” says Olson, who reiterates the support “has been unparalleled to anything I could have imagined in my life.”
In terms of continued fundraising, “We have some exciting things on the horizon,” says D’Angora, hinting at a star-studded benefit gala to be announced soon, in addition to other surprises.
“I was out of hope, and now I’m renewed,” Olson says, to put it succinctly. Though, again, time will tell, “it looks like we can pull it off. The future is bright.”
West Bank Café is open Tues-Sat from 11am-11pm, and Sunday from 11am-10pm.
We’ll continue to present a new performer with new restaurants and new menus, so keep checking back to see who we poll and what’s on their mind at mealtime! Until next time, as always, bon appétit!